The red lines represent the 45 degree cut surfaces which will be carved to the final shape.
The deep flats are cut first while the
wood is still intact. Then the 45 degree angles are cut
which removes wood. Leave as much wood intact as long as
possible to give the saw a place to ride on. The cutting
sequence is important. Think before cutting to prevent wood
from falling away that is needed for a later cut. All of the saw work is done. The rough
shape is ready to carve. The pencil reference line prevents
loosing track of the mid line of the round while
carving. A block plane is a quick and accurate
way to work down to the round surface. For the places where the block plane
will not fit, a framing chisel works well. Rolling the
chisel as it is pushed forward makes the work easier and
creates a pleasing round surface. Depending on the type and condition of
the wood it can take a lot of pressure to carve the concave
surfaces. Really lean into the chisel and work with a
rolling motion to create the curve. Position the work where
your body weight can be brought to bear. If it is too hard,
switch to a narrower chisel. 1" and 3/4" chisels were used
for this project. A short chisel may offer better control.
It is very important to keep the chisels sharp. Chisels dull
quickly due to the high pressure. Dull chisels make for a
lot of work and poor surface finish. Watch out for blisters,
gloves can help. Work both sides of the round until
symmetrical. Straight, square and symmetrical is
the goal. It is important visually to make
straight lines. Check each line and fine tune it straight
with a chisel. A finished pendent and the tools used
to carve it. Due to the large amount of end grain exposed by
the carving, checking is a concern. See "Wood
drying" on the articles
page.
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